Our new joint initiative to raise funds for the Conservation
Fund of the African Bird Club kicked off on a high note this October,
with an 8-day trip to the fabled Angolan escarpment.
I met seven excited birders at Luanda’s International
airport. Sunday afternoons are notoriously chaotic in the country’s
capital, but this day was exceptional. The Palancas,
national football team of Angola, were returning home from Rwanda, victorious
and first-time qualifiers to the Football World Cup (2006). They were
met by no less than a presidential welcome. Street sides were crammed
with eager supporters and traffic brought to a standstill. Fortunately
the team soon disappeared for their victory lap of the main city, drawing
the crowds after them and allowing us to slip out of Luanda to the south.
A breather at some spectacular sandstone cliffs near the Kwanza River
provided a welcome stop, and the river floodplain itself revealed an unexpectedly
pair of Long-legged Pipits,
scurrying along the verge of the road. Another noteworthy stop was made
to observe the large brown swifts that inhabit the coastal plain (and
breed in buildings in Luanda), presumably an undescribed species for now
called Large Brown Swift.
We arrived at our comfortable lodge in time to enjoy a spectacular sunset
and ponder what the rest of the trip would have in stall.
The first day was spent in the vicinity of the Longa
River, providing a gentle introduction to Angola birding. The river itself
produced an array of wetland species, including Little
Bittern, Osprey,
Slender-billed Weaver and
Blue-headed Coucal (the latter
two at the southern extremity of their range). Birding the dry thickets
on the river banks proved very productive, with highlights including the
attractive Rufous-tailed Palm Thrush
and our first endemics, Bubbling Cisticola
(slightly less striking), Golden-backed Bishop
(not much better), Red-backed Mousebird
(getting there) and, best of all, a pair of excited White-fronted
Wattle-eyes.
The rest of the tour was focussed on the Angolan escarpment,
where we spent 4 nights split between two localities. On the way up the
escarpment we stopped at the spectacular Keve River falls, where an African
Hobby darted overhead. We arrived at our first campsite
with an hour of light to spare, and set off in search of our first forest
birds. However, a heavy mist had already pulled in, and we would have
to wait to the following morning to find Gabon
Coucal (an expert skulker that remained hidden for some
of the group), Black-throated Apalis,
Red-headed Bluebill, Superb
Sunbird and Yellow-necked
Greenbul. We spent some time birding the old shade-coffee
forests on the way to our second campsite, where highlights included Rufous
Flycatcher Thrush, Yellow-throated
Tinkerbird (previously known only from Cabinda, some 700km
to the north!), Grey-crowned Negrofinch,
Southern Hyliota and Olive-bellied,
Carmelite and
Little Green (range extension) Sunbirds.
Nothing, however, could compete with our first Red-crested
Turacos, the firm favourite.
We had two full days to explore Kumbira forest in the
Gabela area. With everyone eager to see our main target, the fabled Angola
Cave Chat, this was the first subject of our attention. At first light
we set off, making only a couple of strategic stops as we climbed in altitude.
The unobtrusive Gabela Akalat
and striking Gabela Bush-Shrike
were our most important finds. We continued up, out of the forest and
into the rocky grasslands high on the slopes of Mount Njelo. After a hard
slog, we’d finally dragged ourselves high enough to hear the distant
fluty whistles of our target. Once everyone had caught their breath and
found a good vantage, a short burst of tape drew the Cave
Chat right in, which circled us and finally settled nearby
on a prominent rock, where it sang its melodious song, occasionally moving
into a cave where we suspect it was nesting. Perhaps “Cave Chat”
is a suitable name after all.
Several other birds diverted our attention, including
Striped Pipit, the endemic
Ludwig’s Double-collared Sunbird
and scarce Oustalet’s Sunbird,
Miombo Rock Thrush, Mountain
Wheatear, Rockrunner
(right at the northern edge of its distribution), Wailing
Cisticola, Grey Apalis
and several striking Dusky Twinspots.
We were all intrigued by the very dark black swifts that were flying in
and out of their nests among the crags, uttering strange Little Swift-like
calls. Perhaps these are the very poorly-known Fernando
Po Swift that have been found at Mount Moco, or a new
species all together? Hopefully time will tell. Once everyone had taking
in the spectacular views across the valley, we wound our way back down
the mountain, pausing to find a pair of little-known Pulitzer’s
Longbill and Masked Apalis.
The second full day was spent in the forest in the main
valley, where we notched up a great array of forest species. We found
Yellow-throated Nicator,
Brown-chested Alethe, Least
Honeyguide (range extension),
Petit’s Cuckooshrike,
Perrin’s Bush Shrike (a big crowd pleaser), Yellow-billed
Barbet, Mackinnon’s
Fiscal, Pink-footed Puffback, Brown-capped
Weaver, Red-headed Malimbe, Green Hylia,
Blue-headed Crested Flycatcher, Brown Illadopsis,
Dusky Tit, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Black-faced
Canary and Red-necked Buzzard.
Everyone was impressed by a male African Emerald
Cuckoo that perched nearby, its green plumage shimmering
as it caught the sunlight. A pair of African
Broadbill were busy building a nest, while the localised
Angola Batis was seen several
times, always high in the canopy. Some were fortunate to see Forest
Scrub Robin (voted skulker of the trip), but no-one had
trouble spotting the dagger-billed Monteiro’s
Bush Shrike perched on the treetop. The day was rounded
off with superb views of African Wood Owl.
On return to the coast, we made a detour in search of
the little-known Gabela Helmetshrike.
On route, a pair of Grey-striped Francolin
(until then only heard) flushed from the road right in from of the lead
vehicle. Obviously those in the back vehicles were not going to be impressed,
until we noticed a little brown ball of fluff running down the track.
Everyone alighted and followed the francolin chick until it disappeared
into the undergrowth. Of course this was followed by a discussion on the
merits of ticking birds in juvenile plumage… which no doubt still
rages through the offices of the African Bird Club.
Upon reaching our target area, we were welcomed by numerous
Mottled and Bohm’s
Spinetails. Some concentrated searching went unrewarded
for a while, until suddenly three Gabela Helmetshrikes
were spotted nearby. To begin with they were very flighty, but finally
settled down and allow us to approach at close quarters, where several
good photographs were taken and eight birds observed in all, including
juveniles. Before heading back to the lodge we notched up several other
species, including African Barred Owlet (range
extension), the near-endemic Pale Olive Greenbul,
endemic Pale-billed Firefinch
and Madagascar Bee-eater.
Everyone was pleased to be back at the lodge, where
they could sit in comfort and reflect on a couple of days of fine birding.
On our final day we returned to Luanda, stopping to watch a colony of
Orange Weavers constructing
their nests and a Blue-breasted Kingfisher.
A fine ending to a great trip!
Michael Mills
A special word of thanks to our ground staff for
the excellent job they did at ensuring that we had seven happy campers.
The food was superb!
